My original plan for the day was simple on paper: approach Mount Tasman via Fox Glacier and set up for a climb I’ve dreamt about for years. Reality, as it tends to do in the Southern Alps, had other ideas.

I’d struggled to find any reliable information about which side of the Fox River was best for the walk-in. In the end, I committed to the south side of the river, which begins as a surprisingly solid trail. The first 5 kilometres roll by easily before the track drops into the riverbed and the real adventure begins.

Thanks to heavy rain the night before, the river levels were high and fast. Somehow, I managed to reach the terminal moraine with dry boots—minus one moment where I had to pull my shoes off and wade through a set of braided channels. It was refreshing, in that cold-glacier-runoff way.

I know some people choose the north side of the Fox River, but from what I could see, that terrain looked like a maze of cliffs, slips, and dense vegetation. If anyone is considering this route (and to be clear, I do not recommend attempting it at all), avoid the north side at all costs. The south is difficult enough.

From the terminal moraine up onto Fox Glacier, the landscape shifts into a chaotic world of loose scree, unstable boulders, and constant route-finding puzzles. Every step requires second guessing. Then comes the glacier itself—what’s left of it—and entry into Suicide Alley, the notorious access gully.

I’ve been in my fair share of sketchy terrain, but this was something else. The warm weather had destabilized the entire zone. Much of the route was simply unnavigable. Several times, I witnessed enormous rockfalls crashing down the north walls of the Alley—boulders the size of cars breaking loose, exploding into smaller fragments, and echoing like bombs across the valley. Every impact sent a shudder through the ice beneath my feet.

After one particularly violent rockfall, I ducked behind a huge boulder for shelter, heart pounding. As I waited for things to settle, another massive collapse thundered down. Moments later, rocks began breaking loose directly above me. That was the moment my decision made itself. No summit is worth gambling your life on.

I turned around and walked out.

It’s not often I bail on a climb, but this route is extremely dangerous, and unless you’re arriving by helicopter straight into Pioneer Hut, I can’t in good conscience suggest anyone attempt it. The access has deteriorated dramatically, and the objective hazards are constant and severe.

The one silver lining? I got an incredible, close-up view of Victoria Falls, thundering down from the glacier. A reminder that even when a climb doesn’t go to plan, the mountains still offer something beautiful.

While walking out, I did my best to stay above Fox River, Thank goodness I did. At one point an ice jam broke and the river rose 1-2 meters in a matter of seconds. Had I been anywhere near the river when that happened, I would have been toast.

Not every mission ends with a summit—but sometimes the smartest decision is simply making it home.